Wo ist Pappi?

Managed to have a reasonably administrative conversation with my landlord today, so must be learning some German.
The weather here is different to NZ. Obviously more clearly defined seasons, but also the light is different. And the moon appears much bigger. Speaking of the moon, Richard Branson is promising trips to space in a few years for cheap (ie, only a couple of hundred thousand bucks) prices. Well, I hope it works out. I'd love to go into space. Who wouldn't? And why can't I think about space without David Bowie's "Space Oddity" popping into my head? ("This is Ground Control to Major Tom, la la la la la laaaa.")
Su-Ah, the girl from Korea in my class, saw my iPod today. She didn't know what it was so I expained. Then we had a brief conversation about the evils of downloading ("It's not stealing, it's sharing" - me. ) Her opinion was partly shaped by the ads they show here in Germany of little girls wandering round the house going "Wo ist Pappi?" as the mother rocks back and forth crying. Turns out Pappi was a naughty pirate and is in the slammer awaiting execution. Okay, not the last part! But is being suitably punished.
If I was Catholic and confessed my downloading, would I be absolved? I'll say three Hail Marys, just in case.
Downloaded in German is gedownloadet. Very thinly disguised English. Like gecovered, ausgeflippt or abgefuckt.

Drugs, money, playing the sausage

A friend of a friend is having P issues. For those who don't know, P stands for Pure Methamphetamine and there is a so-called "epidemic" of it in NZ. Many people who smoke P get addicted to it and some flip out and find themselves doing all sorts of crazy things, including murder. It's a horrible drug, that NZers take for lack of anything better - there are really strict border checks and hardly any coke or Ecstasy makes it through, hence the prices are sky-high and people turn to P for a cheap and widely available drug. It's not just gangs doing it, it's young kids and even professionals in their spare time. I've heard nothing but bad stories.
On a lighter note, here is a US episode that I've been downloading bit by bit called The Benefactor. On this umpteenth reality show, a self-made billionaire offers to give $1 million to whoever comes number one in his series of tests. Quite interesting to see who is doing well. but he clearly has favourites and it's not necessarily about being a clever businessperson, more about just brown nosing. Although I guess that's part of the business world.
Learned some more German slang in class today. The best were "Mein Freund zog mich immer durch den Kakao" (My friend always pulled me through the cocoa, ie mocked me.)
Another one was "Ich stand mir die Beine in den Bauch" (I stood with my legs in my tummy, ie waited so long that my legs shrank up to my stomach).
Yet another was "Ich spielte noch die beleidigte Leberwurst" (I played the offended sausage, ie I sulked - why sausage? It's Germany!)
And the last: "Sie wollte mir mal den Bären aufbinden" (She wanted to untie the bear again, ie deceive me)
Phrases in foreign languages are great. And it's always funny when you start mocking them and realise you have equally ridiculous ones in your own language, such as wearing the cat's pyjamas.

The Weekly Chore

It's a sad lifepoint when the most eventful part of my day is going to the supermarket, but it comes to that sometimes. Especially when it's raining for the umpteenth day in a row.
German supermarkets are somewhat different from those in NZ. For one thing, they're all pretty shit. The standard of shittiness varies, of course. The worst are the mean little "Märkte" where it's dark and cramped, with sagging veges. The best are the Kaisers supermarkets. They're bright and large and inviting, but most of the food is still awful. Really, the best place to go for food are cafes or the many little outdoor markets, but sometimes a supermarket trip is necessary.
The trollies are tiny, basically the size of the kids' trollies in NZ supermarkets. You "rent" one for one Euro (why don't they do that in NZ and prevent uni students collecting them?) and push it boredly round. Some of the tins and jars are flat out disgusting (who buys spam? who?). When you have found something to put in the trolley, you can head to the checkout where a surly woman with a mullet will greet you, shoving your food across the counter faster than you can pack it, then stare as you pack it yourself in your own bags.
But you get used to it. And last time I returned to NZ from Germany, the chipper customer service of the check out people seemed so overwhelming, I felt I was in a land where Ecstasy was consumed as part of the daily norm.

Run, run, run (or not)

Ah, another day at the laptop. First up was an article on making friends, which I'm hardly doing when surgically attached to my mouse, then all the emails I didn't send last week. The ones in English take no time at all - just blathering, really, in a nice way - but the ones to German penpals take ages, what with trying to get the genders and declinations right, nouns in Caps, verbs in the right place...
Did I mention I am sick to death of Franz Ferdinand? Most of my music is MP3 and on the iPod, but the few CDs I own that sound the best on Christoph's stereo system...well, the sound is good but I'm sick to death of them. Right now FF are blaring "Ich heiße Superfantastik" which is all very deep and meaningful but is way too chipper.
Perhaps what I should have been doing today was running the Berlin Marathon with 40,000 other goody-goods, but let's be honest, there wasn't the remotest chance of that happening without a coffee drip or many Red Bulls. It's more fun just to stroll round autumnal Berlin, when it's not raining, in my new red coat (I seem to be the only person not in a black coat) and kick round leaves.

Reichstag

On Wednesday night I went with my "language exchange" partner (although I think we could just be called friends, now) Ricarda to the Reichstag. I finally made it! I remember when my first Herald article was published about Berlin in 2000 and they included a photo of the Reichstag and I felt a bit like a plonker for not even going to see it. It is free, after all.
So we took a right at the Brandenburg Gate, right before Tiergarten, and queued during the sunset to get in. I have mixed feelings when I look at the Reichstag. It's a magnificent building with thick columns at the top of the stairs and the glass dome peeking over from the top. But in the corner of my mind I also see Hitler in this building and so being there is a chilling experience as well..
At the bottom of the stairs is a huge lawn where people lie on warm days. Today wasn't even close - autumn is well and truly here, with dark, low clouds and a biting wind. Like being at the airport, we had to pass strong security checks before they let us in.
Inside they have photos of the Reichstag from the late 1800s to today. Yes, that includes the Kaiser, soldiers, Hitler and the Wall. There was a photo of Michael Jackson giving a concert in 1988 outside the Reichstag. Ricarda said it was common knowledge that concerts would be staged near the Wall so East Germans could crowd onto Unter Den Linden and hear them too.
There is a spiral staircase that you can walk up and on the way you can look out at Berlin. It was already dark, but we could still see the TV tower at Alexanderplatz (old DDR relic that it is, it looks like an old disco ball or the Death Star stuck on a large pole), the illuminated Berliner Dom, the Spree river sparkling from the night lights.
I've been commissioned to do some more work, which is a relief - three articles.
I've also found some more ways to practise my German - I have two pen-pals (in Bavaria) and an MSN Messenger friend. I've decided to apply for a job that was advertised in Tip yesterday, it's for a German to English translator. Native-speaker levels of English are required and fluent German (which is a maybe - my German is relatively fluent but there's no one day you wake up and realise you're fluent. But my ZMP exam is in November so that might count for something). Anyway, as someone in my life used to say, If you don't ask, you don't get. It's a simple but effective philosophy.
Today is Friday and it's Claire's last day in Berlin, so we're going out to lunch. Love going out to lunch! Though the choice of where to eat out in Berlin is overwhelming.

*cough*

Got a packet from NZ- Milo! Gingernuts! Yum!! Every dunk of a Gingernut is a precious moment when you're on the other side of the world.
Last night we went to the Berliner Philharmoniker for the first time - cool building. The music was Debussey conducted by Sir Simon Rattle. Rattle asked everyone (in German) so try and minimise their coughing, so people waited till the interludes before hacking away. Dubussey is not easy to listen to, but it was also fun to sit there and people watch (there were hundreds - it sold out months ago, too). The black and white tuxes, the glistening instruments, the accoustics.
Speaking of accousitcs, I read today that Shihad have changed their name back to Shihad, after being Pacifier for a few post-9/11 years. They never really stopped being Shihad in NZ, anyway. People sometimes find change hard to take.
Today is Deutsch-only day, where my (NZ) bf and I speak only in German. Although we are very disparate levels it helps a lot and keeps me thinking in German for most of the day.

Two posts in one day because I'm bored. I've done my German stuff, sent off some articles and ideas, downloaded some stuff. The weather is grey and cold, and it's Sunday so of course all the shops are shut (I must do a post about that sometime).
So I'm going to talk about registration (Anmeldung). Here in Germany it is compulsory for everyone, Germans as well as foreigners, to register with the police. I don't know how well it works. If you look at the top of my blog, you'll see I put that I'm one of 250 NZers here. I got that figure from a Tagespiegel article John's wife Tanja showed me, which added up all the registered foreigners in Berlin (there was one lonely Tongan, as I recall). But the number can't be too accurate - for one, the article was from the end of last year and I was counted even though I wasn't here then. That's because I didn't fill in my Abmeldung form (an un-registration form) when I left at the end of 2000. And heaps of people don't bother to register because it's a pain in the ass.
But, being a good girl (and wanting to open a bank account, which you need the form for), I dragged my bf to the Meldungsbüro in June to register. The process is this: You buy the forms and fill them in at home (or try to, some of it's quite complicated). Then you go as soon as the büro opens, take a number and wait two hours, praying it will all work out and the waiting hasn't been for nothing. You get ushered into a room, most likely inhabited by some sour old crank who hates his/her boring job. Questions are asked, corrections are made to mistakes on the form (you must fill in the religion section, even if you don't have one. I later found out this part is to deduct your pay for Church Tax if you are so inclined.) My visit was slightly unfortunate - it was discovered I'd never filled in the Abmeldung form for 2000 and had skewed their stats ever since. Naughty me! Then it was revealed I didn't know the address of where I'd allegedly lived, so Sour Woman heaved a sigh and filled it in for me. Then it was further revealed that whoever had helped me with my first form in 2000 had declared me divorced, and Sour Woman looked sceptical when I swore I'd never even been married. Luckily I was not asked to prove this (how could I?)
Finally, after hours of waiting and maintaining my single status, I was registered with the police. So they can now find me if they want, which isn't exactly appealing, but there you go. What a palaver. But it's a necessary evil for any kind of administrative thing in Berlin, eg bank card, video card, library card, phone plans... People are always shocked to find out such a process does not exist in NZ and my passport, the only formal ID doc I have save my driver's licence, is only for travelling with and I didn't even have that until I was 20!

Blue eyes, Little Earth Men...

Thierry, the Swiss guy (French part), has left our German class and so we are now manless. He was particularly striking, too - the bluest eyes I've ever seen. The woman at the bakery. who normally doesn't give us more than a cursory nod, would fawn all over him.
I should say who the other people in my class are - Yoko. from Japan, is friendly but reserved. She has a German boyfriend and translates between Japanese and Chinese. She is mid 30s and had a husband in Japan who died but I'm not sure how and of course don't want to ask. Su-ah is from Korea, also reserved but friendly, is an author and loves reading German literature. That's why she's learning German and she also wants to translate. Pinto's first name is Rebecca but everyone calls her Pinto. She's from everywhere - Brazilian father, Portugese mother, grew up in Aussie but speaks with a London accent. She is very bubbly and works in a hostel, always too hard because she's very run-down. Kyla is Canadian and hardly speaks German although she's lived here for ages. She's an interior architect. Claire comes from Leeds and has two kids, is friendly but gets grumpy fast if she can't understand something. She leaves this week.
Yesterday was Saturday and Rich and I went to the zoo - good to learn animal names, my favourite was meerkat in German is Erdmännchen (little earth man, so cute!) - and then I went to KaDeWe to buy some boots. It was a relatively painless experience apart from a man directing me to the teens' section! They have so many things to choose from there it's hard to narrow it down. On the top level there is a food court claiming to sell 1800 different kinds of sausage and cheese, and there's a domed glass roof where you can look over the western side of the city. Outside the store is a "Mahnmal" (memorial for something negative) about the concentration camps just saying We Must Never Forget and then listing them one by one. People seemed more interested in the brass band nearby pumping out the Mission Impossible theme.

Retraction

I was wrong about the plastic surgeon - he did ring and leave a message, but at 8pm. The person calling later (twice) was my bf's mother from NZ who heard my answerphone message in German and thought she's called the wrong number. We know this because she called again at 2am (no research into the time difference, clearly) and my bf answered, thinking it was the plastic surgeon and preparing to have words (how chivalrous). So I am teaching him, starting next week.
Today is Saturday, and yet another fine, sunny autumn day in Berlin. First up is always the Kollwitzplatz Ökomarkt for a crepe (must have lemon and sugar), fresh ravioli, juice, feta, olives, pesto and bread. Yum!

Demanding plastic surgeon and a dictator's downfall

How did it become Friday already? I've already missed half my German class today because I slept in. Last night I met some old friends for dinner in Neuköln, one of whom is visiting Berlin from NZ for a few days. It was good, although everyone was speaking German and although I could understand everything, I don't have the confidence to jump in and say something. Although I often have a similar problem in English..
Jörgen, the plastic surgeon, rang me at 11:30pm. I didn't answer it (was still at dinner, of course) and he left a message, then rang back. I don't like that, especially when it's late. If I don't answer the phone, you shouldn't call back unless it's a bloody emergency (or a job offer)! He said he wanted to see me and I don't know if he meant right then or if it was just his not-so-good English. I felt a bit harrassed. I had met him again earlier this week, unsure if I should meet him again, but it went okay. He said he wants me to teach him English (he's already taking classes) and I was going to say yes, because it would be easy money and I need some of that, but if he's going to call late and be demanding it's not worth it.
Yesterday I went to see Der Untergang with my class in the afternoon. I understood most of it and of course I knew the plot so it wasn't too hard. They lost me a bit when discussing military strategies, but the map of Berlin with red squares and arrows pointing inwards was fairly self-explanatory. The actor who played Hitler was really good, although his strong Bavarian accent made it hard to understand everything. I think it's the first commercial German film about WW2, which is quite a step I guess.

Emails and chirpiness

For some inexplicable reason I woke up feeling quite cheerful. Maybe it's that it's a sunny day, with a hint of autumnal crispness in the air. Maybe it's that I feel free. Or that I'm going to Nice in a few weeks. No travel article, just a weekend trip.
Russell sent me an email. Russell is an American guy (passionately anti-Bush) who I met during my short-lived and funds-draining stint at Goethe. He's back in Boston, but sends me these great, rambling emails. One of the disadvantages of emails I've noticed, as someone who comes from a prehistoric era of snail mail, is that personal emails are often shit. They're either two lines long or simply lacking in any valid information. One of my best friends, who I know can write well, sends appalling emails.
Anyway, off to school. Gave my Maori presentation yesterday. Everyone seemed really interested, asked lots of q's,. I'm taking in my passport today so they can see some Maori. I showed them the haka yesterday on my laptop. I was so nervous as I started talking! Felt dumb, I don't know why I was scared. It's irrational.

Rejected!

The Godafather was okay. Well acted and good plot, but the whole mafia thing has been done to death ever since and I'm not such a fan, anyway. I can't identify with a bunch of thugs.
Am a bit let down because I just got a rejection letter for two of my travel articles. The features ed sounded quite sad to say no, but it was for a girl mag and apparently my articless weren't NZ-focused enough (but that's the point!) or perky enough (I take that as a compliment). So a slight disappointment but it was a nice letter and good to actually get a reply with feedback. She said to send her more stuff, too. And rejections are normal, though I've been pretty lucky so far..
I have to give a speech to my German class this morning about the Maori culture.

Untitled

Shopping for winter clothes - I now look like a H&M advertisment.
Found out why the Herald job was advertised - a journo was fired for plagiarism. Ouch.
Saw the Jim Jarmush film Coffee and Cigarettes last night. Was actually pretty good. I liked the sketches with Steven Coogin as a self-satisfied wanker and Cate Blanchett and her jealous cousin (played by the same person). I am watching the Godfather tonight. I have never, ever seen it. So much hype - it's IMDb's number one film.
Turned down a request by Expatica to write an article - felt bad. but was too complicated and would've involved legal jargon.
This afternoon I have had an unprecidented attack of domesticity and am baking a cake. The last time I baked a cake would've been sometime between grunge and post grunge, so it's been a while.

Tandem

Yesterday I met my second language exchange partner for the first time. I don't know if it will work out, he was kind of wierd and demanding. In fact, for the first two months he only wanted to speak in English! I had to remind him nicely that that wasn't an "exchange", it was just him being taught by me for free. He also seemed pretty self-absorbed, chatting away about himself for most of the time and blinking at me during the brief times I spoke, then resuming his monologue. Looking back on what I've just written, I don't know if I'll meet him again...maybe just once more and pretend I have to leave the country immediately or something.

Connected again

I have given up on wireless connections. Wireless sucks! There, it's official.
Now I finally have working internet and don't have to click on the same button, over and over, hoping it won't "time out". Does that phrase remind anyone else of a sulky kid sitting in the corner? Well, that's what it behaves like: "Nup. Not doin' it. No! You're not the boss of me", etc.
So today I've taken advantage of snappy speeds by sending out my travel aticles in the vain hope that someone will want one and the vainer hope that I might be paid for it. Honestly, I've found the money-chasing takes a lot longer than the writing part. I would never rely on freelancing for money.
The sad part is when you're disconnected and feel like the whole cyber world is moving on without you, you're out of the loop, etc. Then you find the bitter announcement: "You have 0 new emails. That's right, null, niente, nichts, etc"

Home alone

Yesterday I went to an art exhibition on Museum Island with some people from my class, then had lunch with them. That was nice. I don't have any close friends here right now, but I don't really care - it's good to get to know new people a bit.
Because I'm here by myself, I downloaded a film that only I would want to see. No, I'm not going to say what it was! No, it was not The Sound of Music, though I do have a soft spot for Christopher Plummer.
Today I'm trying to finish an article, but procrastinating a lot and looking longingly out the window at the sunny day.

weather

Summer came back yesterday, hurrah! I was sitting by Brandenburg Gate in the evening sun, watching the tourists scuttling by laden down with cameras.
People seem to be fixated by the weather here. Maybe because it's usually more interesting than in NZ.
Walked around last night. There are buildings here that have been done up and some that still have bullet holes from ww2. I like the contrast, I find it very interesting, but they old ones won't be around too much longer. It's true that Berlin is one big construction site still.
My bf is off this weekend to London for a a Zillionaire concert and a meeting with our old friend Charlie. Am a tad envious, but will also be good to have the place to myself and re-enact that Tom Cruise - Risky Business scene (if I want..)

Shower

I'm a bit grumpy this morning because, for some inexplicable reason, there is no hot water so I can't shower.
Anyway...yesterday we tried to arrange our next flat since we have to move out of here in October. Of course, got caught in a massive downpour. Still, I quite like massive downpours.
Yesterday I got an email from a website I do some writing for, saying one of my article might be published in the Wall Street Journal. I hope it is...instant prestige in my CV, seething envy from peers, etc.